Navigating the world of skincare can be overwhelming, especially when it comes to exfoliation. Many consumers face the dilemma of choosing between chemical and mechanical exfoliants. To clarify these two options, we consulted with Dr. Anjali Mahto, a consultant dermatologist and founder of the Self London clinic. Here’s what you need to know about the differences, benefits, and suitability of each type.
Understanding Exfoliants
Chemical exfoliants use active substances to dissolve dead skin cells and unclog pores. These typically include various acids: Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as lactic and glycolic acid, Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid, and Poly hydroxy acids (PHAs) such as gluconolactone. In contrast, mechanical exfoliants, also known as physical exfoliants, rely on physical particles to scrub the skin. These can include naturally derived substances like jojoba beads. Notably, plastic microbeads are banned in the UK due to environmental concerns.
Determining which type of exfoliation is superior is complex. Dr. Mahto explains, “I wouldn’t necessarily call one type of exfoliation definitively ‘better,’ but rather more or less appropriate depending on the individual.” She notes that chemical exfoliants tend to work more uniformly and can be gentler in the long run, as they dissolve bonds between dead skin cells instead of relying solely on friction.
Exfoliation for Sensitive Skin
A common misconception is that individuals with sensitive skin should avoid exfoliating products altogether. Dr. Mahto clarifies that this is not the case, although it requires a more cautious approach. “Sensitive or reactive skin benefits from gentle chemical exfoliants like lactic acid or PHAs used sparingly—sometimes once a week is enough,” she says. Physical scrubs are generally not recommended for sensitive skin, as they can worsen redness and damage the skin barrier.
The key takeaway from Dr. Mahto is that proper exfoliation can enhance skin texture and improve product absorption, provided the skin barrier is healthy.
Choosing the right exfoliant is not just about personal preference; it also depends on skin type. Dr. Mahto advises that chemical exfoliants are better suited for those with acne-prone, congested, or uneven skin, as they penetrate more predictably and help regulate cell turnover. For oily skin types, BHAs, particularly salicylic acid, can reach deeper into the pores. Meanwhile, individuals with dry or sun-damaged skin often benefit more from AHAs, which hydrate while exfoliating.
Conversely, mechanical exfoliants may appeal to those with robust, non-sensitive skin who prefer a tactile experience. However, they must be used with care. Dr. Mahto emphasizes, “They’re a big no-no for conditions like rosacea, eczema, and active inflammation.”
When selecting mechanical exfoliants, it is crucial to choose products with smooth, rounded particles to avoid micro-tears in the skin. Dr. Mahto warns against using harsh scrubs made from crushed shells, salt, or sugar, as these can cause damage, especially when applied vigorously.
“Exfoliation should never sting, burn, or leave the skin feeling raw,” she concludes, emphasizing that such sensations indicate barrier disruption rather than effectiveness.
For those interested in incorporating exfoliation into their skincare routine, here are some recommended products:
– Medik8 Press and Glow PHA Tonic
– Paula’s Choice The UnScrub
– NATURIUM BHA Liquid Exfoliant 2%
– Pixi Glow Tonic
– Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant
Understanding the nuances between chemical and mechanical exfoliants can help consumers make informed decisions that suit their skin’s unique needs.
