The launch of Tom Kerridge’s beef wellington at Marks & Spencer (M&S) has sparked considerable debate regarding its value. Priced at an eye-watering £195, this festive dish has become a topic of conversation for both culinary enthusiasts and casual shoppers alike. After a challenging online ordering process, I successfully secured my wellington for collection on December 22, 2025, and set out to discover if it lived up to the immense anticipation.
When M&S announced its collaboration with the triple Michelin-starred chef, many loyal customers expressed shock at the steep price. M&S, which faced a significant revenue loss of £324 million earlier this year due to a cyber attack, justified the cost by branding the wellington as a “Christmas Eve showstopper” designed to impress. The high-quality ingredients and culinary expertise promised a memorable dining experience.
Collecting the Wellington
On the morning of collection, I arrived at my local M&S in Brighton to a bustling atmosphere. Customers eagerly picked up their festive orders, including both the wellington and traditional Christmas turkeys. The wellington arrived in an elegant box, weighing 2.1 kg (approximately 4.6 lb) and claiming to serve six people. This raised questions about portion sizes, especially when comparing it to other high-end offerings. For instance, Fortnum & Mason’s wellington, priced at £120 and weighing 1.4 kg, also claims to serve six to eight, despite being significantly smaller.
The packaging featured a message from Kerridge, emphasizing the importance of good food during the festive season and the joy of shared experiences. It stated that the wellington was crafted to reduce stress in the kitchen, making it an appealing choice for holiday gatherings.
Preparing and Tasting the Dish
Following the detailed cooking instructions meticulously, I ensured that the wellington rested at room temperature before placing it in a preheated fan oven at 200 degrees Celsius. The guidelines advised using a hot baking tray to achieve a perfect pastry without the dreaded sogginess. After 45 minutes of cooking, I allowed it to rest for an additional 45 minutes before slicing into it.
Upon removing the wellington from the oven, I was struck by its stunning appearance. The all-butter hot water crust pastry was glossy and golden, with no leakage of meat juices. When I finally cut into the dish, the pastry was crisp, and the beef fillet was perfectly cooked, appearing more medium-rare than medium—as per the instructions.
The wellington was encased in a rich portobello mushroom duxelles and a smooth chicken mousse infused with black truffle. The accompanying beef and red wine gravy added an extra layer of flavor. As I took my first bite, the tender beef melted in my mouth, complemented beautifully by the earthy duxelles.
Despite the indulgent flavors, one slice contained approximately 501 calories, comparable to a McDonald’s Big Mac. Nonetheless, the rich taste compelled me to indulge further, leading me to question whether six people could truly be satisfied with the portion size.
The overall experience confirmed that the beef wellington from M&S, while expensive, delivered on taste and presentation. It is a dish that would likely leave guests speechless, as promised, and for those who appreciate exceptional culinary experiences, it may well justify the steep price tag.
In conclusion, if you are considering splurging on this festive centerpiece, rest assured that you are in for a delightful treat. M&S has successfully created a high-quality product that stands out in a crowded market of holiday offerings.
