Lemaire has redefined the concept of a fashion show with its latest presentation, titled “mine eyes,” which merges the realms of runway and theater. The collection, showcased for Fall/Winter 2026, features a series of living tableaux that delve into the essence of fabrics and the enigma of movement. This innovative approach transforms the runway into a stage where garments and accessories interact with the audience in a dreamlike environment.
The collection employs striking optical illusions. For instance, lacquered denim is designed to resemble leather, while crushed velvets shimmer with a metallic finish. These materials are meticulously chosen for their deceptive qualities, enhancing the visual narrative. Draping techniques, including asymmetrical folds and pleated slits, serve as dynamic storytelling elements, creating layers of intrigue that flow with the wearer’s movements.
Artistry and Inspiration
At the core of this season’s vision is the influence of Roland Topor, whose “lucid dream” concept inspires the designs. His distinctive pencil lines are translated into a tactile language through the use of dry silk threads and spiny textures, infusing a sense of black humor into the collection. The designs resonate with urban themes, featuring prints that depict stormy skies and what the brand describes as “meteorological camouflage,” appealing to the modern wanderer.
Accessories play a crucial role, blending functionality with surrealist elements. Key-shaped pendants cleverly conceal corkscrews, while whimsical designs such as seashells and starbursts add a playful touch to the overall silhouette. This blend of practicality and artistry encapsulates the spirit of the collection, inviting wearers to embrace both style and utility.
Fusion of Cultures
The men’s collection grounds this ethereal vision by integrating structured Western archetypes with the fluidity of Eastern design. Traditional trench coats and mohair suits are imbued with a softness that evokes an “Eastern breeze,” particularly evident in the reimagined Mandarin jackets crafted from supple calfskin. The pairing of sharp tailoring with comfortable domestic slippers introduces a contrast that balances sophistication with the intimacy of home life.
Through its theatrical approach, Lemaire has successfully transcended the conventional fashion show format, offering a rich tapestry of visual and tactile experiences. The collection stands as a testament to the brand’s commitment to exploring the boundaries of fashion and performance art, inviting audiences to witness the metamorphosis of fabric and form in a captivating narrative.
As the world of fashion continues to evolve, Lemaire’s innovative presentation reaffirms the potential for clothing to tell stories, blurring the lines between aesthetic and experience in the process.
