Recent research has revealed that numerous hazardous chemicals are present in hair extensions, with potential links to cancer and hormonal disruptions. This study, led by Dr. Elissia Franklin from the Silent Spring Institute in Massachusetts, indicates that black women are particularly at risk due to their higher usage of these products. The findings have spurred calls for regulatory action from corporations and government agencies.
Dr. Franklin’s team analyzed 43 different hair extension products, both human and synthetic, sourced from online retailers and local shops. The research included extensions made with materials such as Kanekalon, Aquatex, Spetra, and Mastermix. Among the products tested, 19 claimed to be flame retardant, three were advertised as water resistant, nine as heat resistant, and three asserted they contained “no PVC” or were “non-toxic.”
Despite these claims, Dr. Franklin emphasized that companies often fail to disclose the specific chemicals used in their products, which leaves consumers unaware of the potential health risks associated with prolonged use. She stated, “While prior reports have found some chemicals of concern in hair extensions, there’s still much we don’t know about their overall chemical make-up.”
The researchers screened the extensions for a wide range of chemicals, identifying approximately 900 distinct chemical signatures. Utilizing machine learning, they matched these signatures to a comprehensive chemical library and discovered a total of 169 chemicals, many of which are associated with serious health risks, including cancer and hormone disruption. Alarmingly, the study found that all but two samples contained hazardous substances.
Among the concerning findings, 17 chemicals linked to breast cancer were identified across 36 samples. Furthermore, nearly 10% of the samples contained toxic organotins, commonly used as biocides and pesticides, which are subject to strict regulation in the United Kingdom and European Union. Dr. Franklin expressed surprise at the prevalence of these compounds, noting their association with skin irritation, a common complaint among users of hair extensions.
The research findings have been published in the journal Environment & Health by the American Chemical Society. A spokesperson for the advocacy group Level Up commented that the study supports longstanding concerns voiced by black women regarding the health risks posed by hair products. They stated, “From hair relaxers to braiding hair, we are being overexposed to cancer-causing endocrine-disrupting chemicals.”
Over the past five years, Level Up has compiled extensive research linking harmful chemicals found in hair relaxers and braiding hair to severe health conditions, including cancer, kidney failure, and fibroids. The spokesperson urged that this evidence should prompt immediate action from regulators and corporations, insisting, “Black women and our children should be able to trust that the products we use… will not put our health at risk.”
Jacky van Driel-Nguene, a consultant trichologist and chief executive of Trichology Europe, highlighted a critical concern regarding ingredient transparency in hair extension products. Unlike many cosmetic products, these extensions often provide little to no information about chemical treatments or additives, complicating the ability for professionals to advise clients effectively and for consumers to make informed choices.
In light of these findings, there is a growing call for enhanced disclosure of ingredients and safety oversight in the hair extension industry. Greater transparency would not only support consumer protection but also lead to improved scalp health outcomes for users. The implications of this research are significant, urging stakeholders to prioritize the safety and well-being of consumers, particularly those most affected by these products.
